Basic Msemen Recipe - Square Moroccan Pancakes

These square, laminated Moroccan pancakes are called msemen or sometimes rghaif. They're a popular breakfast and tea time treat not only in Morocco, but also Tunisia and Algeria. If you haven't tried one, it's time you do!

Although easily bought at bakeries or as a street food, many Moroccans prefer to make msemen at home. That way the texture, flavor, size and quality can all be controlled.

Serve them plain—I like them this way hot off the griddle—or spread with butter, honey, jam or cheese. The most traditional way, however, is to dip msemen in hot syrup made from butter and honey. A bit messy to eat, but sticky sweet and delicious.

The elastic bread-like dough used to make msemen can be unleavened or barely leavened. For the latter, just a tiny bit of yeast is used. In recent years, I've seen some cooks replace the yeast with baking powder.

I prefer the barely leavened method, which is what my recipe below uses. It yields msemen with well-defined layers, a slightly crispy exterior and chewy interior. There is room to play in terms of changing ratios of flour or replacing some or all of the white flour with whole wheat, but if you've never made msemen before, I encourage you to try the recipe as is.

Don't be alarmed by the quantity of oil and butter used in the process of shaping the msemen.  All that oil won't be absorbed into the dough. Done properly, msemen shouldn't feel greasy or be any more indulgent than other rich treats such as croissants or donuts.

You'll need ample work space to shape the dough into squares. A well-cleaned, clutter-free granite counter top, a large flat plastic or metal tray, or a large Moroccan gsaa will all do. Once, cooked, the msemen store beautifully in the freezer and are easy to reheat on short notice, so plan to make them ahead of time.

Once you master msemen, be sure to try making meloui, another type of Moroccan laminated crepe or pancake.